As old beekeepers we have used our hives to pollinate orchards and market gardens throughout Central Massachusetts by moving them at night from location to location.  

We have also harvested honey in good years along with beeswax as a byproduct. Over the years beeswax has gained a higher demand than honey as we made candles, ornaments, hand creams and lip balms from the wax. Today we are experimenting with different formula for using beeswax as a finish for turned pieces.  We would like to share a couple of formulas which you can try, but first you might be interested in how the wax is produced.
 
Honeybees live only about 28 days from literally working themselves to death gathering pollen and nectar. During the first hours and days out of their cells the bees have to clean and repair cells. The young bees secrete the wax from wax glands on the underside of the bee's abdomen. The wax is molded to repair or build new six-sided cells which can be filled with honey, then capped with more wax or used by the queen to lay one of the thousands of eggs produced each day. It is important to know the difference between wax used for honey storage and wax used for egg cells as there are significant differences in color, odor and properties.
 
Wax obtained from the brood comb cells used for eggs is very dark containing byproducts of the birthing processes of hundreds of bees. The odor is usually much stronger but not as pleasant as the wax from honey cells.  The wax from the honey cells and more specifically from the cappings which the bees place over the filled honey cells to protect the honey from moisture is the cleanest and most pleasant. The color of this wax is a brilliant yellow like sunflowers. The odor is the pleasant scent people normally associate with honey.  This wax called capping wax is the most prized and is mostly used for pleasant smelling long burning candles. The reason that I have described the differences in beeswax is because the wax can affect your turning color, shine and odor. Older comb wax is harder and contains materials other than wax. It will give a beautiful sheen to a turning but may slightly darken the color of very light woods. It will leave a slight wax odor which is pleasant but not as fresh as capping wax. Capping wax is softer with a nice sheen, less likely to darken the wood and it leaves the piece with a nice honey scent.  If you are turning an object which will be handled frequently, you may want to consider capping beeswax as the owner of the piece will improve the sheen and scent with every handling of the piece.
 
Beeswax may be used alone by applying it to the turning piece then applying a folded paper towel to heat and bring out the sheen. Beeswax has a melting point of 143 to 148 degrees F. and should only be heated using a double boiler as it is flammable when subjected to fire and flames. It is pliable at 100 degrees F and will produce a very nice sheen to wood. In addition, it is impervious to water and unaffected by mildew, making it desirable for food contact containers. If you worry about the finish wearing off versus a high tech poly product, just include a small piece of beeswax with your piece.
 
Beeswax can be used as part of a number of formula with a number of components to provide durability, penetration and/shine. Here are a couple of examples that you may try.

Three in One Solid Furniture Polish
One of the oldest and most famous Beeswax Polishes is called Three in One Solid Furniture Polish because of its components. It is simply an equal portioned mixture of linseed oil, warmed beeswax and turpentine. This formula can be experimented with for best results in your application. It is best to begin with small quantities of about a cup of each component. The warmed (heated in a double boiler) should be mixed with a wood stick until a consistent mix is formed. The rich golden mixture is then poured into a wide mouth container for later use. If a more solid wax is desired, increase the beeswax portion of the formula.

Hard Beeswax Furniture Polish
This formula provides a harder more durable finish due to the inclusion of carnauba wax

    4 ounces weight) beeswax
    2 tablespoons carnauba wax
    2 ½ cups odorless turpentine or mineral spirits

Melt the waxes in a double boiler. Remove from the heat and stir in the turpentine or mineral spirits. Mix well and store in a wide mouth container. To use, apply the polish with a clean cloth while rubbing in circles. Turn the cloth as it becomes dirty. Allow the polish to dry (haze) then buff with a clean cloth. If more than one coat is desired it will benefit from waiting two days between applications.

Beeswax Special Furniture Cream Polish

4 Oz. beeswax           
¼ cup liquid soap (ivory or dove)
2 cups turpentine           
1 cup very warm water           
10 drops of lavender essential oil.

Dissolve the soap in the warm water and let cool. Using a double boiler, melt the shaved beeswax into the turpentine, remove and cool. When both mixes are cool, mix gently with a wooden stick and add 10 drops of lavender oil. If the mix hardens too quickly before incorporating, reheat gently while stirring.

Beeswax Arthritis Treatment
This has nothing to do with a wood finish but will benefit the old turner whose hands are feeling the pains of arthritis.            

5 pounds Beeswax           
2 cups mineral oil (baby oil)

Melt the ingredients in a double boiler or an old large coffee urn at 170 degrees F. Stir to mix the oil and wax. Remove the heat and allow the mix to cool until a film forms on the surface (about 125 degrees F) Test the wax to be sure that it is very warm but not uncomfortable.

The clean, dry body part to be treated should be dipped into the wax and withdrawn. If the hand is being treated, keep the fingers apart and dip a few times until there is a thick coating of wax. Return the body part to the wax and keep it there (15 – 30 minutes) until the mixture cools. Remove the body part and peal off the wax and return to the container. Hurry to your lathe, turn and enjoy the movement without pain. Save the wax in the container to be used again, the mixture will melt more quickly now that the oil and wax are combined.

Try some of these and other polishes and uses for beeswax. I would like to hear about your formulas. Perhaps we can prepare a part two article with additional recipes. If you wonder why beeswax is so expensive, consider this: It has been estimated that bees must fly 150,000 miles to produce one pound of wax. Bees must eat about six pounds of honey to secrete a pound of wax. For every 100 pounds of honey a beekeeper harvests, only one to two pounds of beeswax are produced.

Webmasters note: See Jim's website at: http://nehoney.com